Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Joburg Spring/Summer 2016: Day 1
Fashion Week started with a high-octane opening, setting the standards higher for the next 3 days of Fashion Week. From the front lines of MBFWJ SS16, The Insider reviews the first day of Fashion Week.
The Intern by David Tlale
‘The Intern’ by David Tlale, returned this season with six young, aspirational designers bringing a fresh take on fashion to South Africa. There seemed to be a theme throughout the show with modern lines and silhouettes, resembling a fusion of Asian and African traditional wear.
Each collection brought something different to the runway, with the on-trend exposed shoulders, tailored pieces and neutral tones by Cindy Cindy Mfabe, Mmuso Potsane, Angeline Mafelo’s collections. Maxwell Boko and Siphosile Masango wowed with deep colourful shades, presenting African elements in their designs.
Lastly, Ntando Ngwenya incorporated an athleisure element to his collection in blue and pink shades, with major structure. A touch of beauty was added to the male models with blue lipstick.
Colour by Nandi Mngoma and Inga Madyibi
Earlier this year Nandi Mngoma debuted her first design at the BET awards in the USA which created high expectations for the collection she debuted at MBFWJ SS16. Nandi’s collection proved to hold its own, with pastel shades and pieces, interesting textures and patterns, and of course subtle tribal elements, most notably its beaded headpieces The well-paired fabrics and colours brought a colourful and collated collection for every kind of style.
The hair and makeup pushed boundaries with colourful face paint – referencing the name of her brand, while the hair was kept natural except for the Cleopatra-inspired beaded wigs.
BulBulia Threads by Tasleem Bulbulia
The Bulbulia Threads collection, the first of its kind at MBFWJ, presented fresh, springtime pieces with fabulous designs inspired by Tasleem Bulbulia’s Arabic culture. Beaded necklaces and colourful head wrap accessories added tribal points with the main themes of modern, modest and meaningful, which is threaded through from her own faith.
The brand is imbued with a conscious aim to create and represent a positive image and a fresh way of wearing the traditional Hijab, that can translate well into any other culture. There was also a trendy element with beautifully tailored bomber jackets.
The following two designers joined the delicious roster of designers at the last minute. But what a wonderful addition they have made. New to the MBFWJ runway, each designer elevated the show with contrasting collections.
WAKE by Pieter Burger
Wake awakened its audience with a striking and sharp array of sheer bell sleeves, kimono belts, sharp shoulders, boxy silhouettes and monochromatic prints, topped with peculiar headpieces. Pieter surely has a flair for structure as he straddled both the feminine and masculine, with long silhouettes, high-collar detailing, knee-length shorts overlaid with mesh, and roll-up sleeves. Several pieces were interposed with light green and electric blue, giving the collection a unique and urban feel.
Matte Nolim by Siyethemba Duma
Bell-bottoms, bell-sleeves, bare shoulders, and flared pants all worked in unison to bring an unapologetically feminine collection. Silk, satin and mesh made for a lovely arrangement, with a simple palette of powdery pink, jet black and ivory white. The elongated sleeves of the mesh tops gave length to the already tall models. A key accessory that tied in the collection well were fabric chokers that gave an added allure to the models. With minimal detailing, Siyethemba played with shape giving some form of emphasis to each silhouette.
AFI Fastrack™ Presents:
This year is the first time Fastrack™ has engaged with local celebrities to collaborate with its young finalists. Pulling off a collaboration of this nature while maintaining the standards of a fashion collection was no easy feat, but there was no indication of the sleepless nights the finalists had to endure, on the runway. With the help of each designer’s celebrity pairing, the show was nothing short of entertaining.
Tayla Ngukos and Minnie Dlamini saturated the runway in white with their sporty chic collection. Fit models lined the runway in athletic poses leaving little doubt about what the collection’s theme. Having only met about three weeks ago, Tayla and Minnie allied to create a collection that best complemented each one’s sartorial and design preferences.
The running theme (pun intended) of the collection felt au courant with ‘athleisture’ being a trending…One particular piece recalled what Tayla is especially skilled at, knitting. Tayla;s loose, open knit tops hung delicately on the model’s frame, paired with a mini skirt that fluidly swivelled by in lightweight cotton . Slivers of faux-leather silver accentuated a few pieces adding a certain edginess to a pleasantly feminine collection.
Minnie and Tayla seemed pleased with their collection as they walked out to applause before closing their show with a picture perfect selfie.
Chesney Williams and DJ Zinhle came in strong with their interpretation of the street bohemian woman. Ever the entertainer, DJ Zinhle paced down the runway, wearing LED-lit sneakers that were one of the highpoints of the overall collection, and took control of DJ station at the far end of the runway, soon to fill the marquee with local beats. The dynamic pair offered up a slew of straight-cut denim dresses, all made even more distinct with funky and playful embroidered patches that are all the rage this season. Overalls with a cool blue collar feel, sheer and mesh tops, slim-fit pants and sleek panama hats gave the collection a heavy dose of the contemporary and hip aesthetic.
Buda Malete and DJ Tira are a perfect pair who share a laidback, no fuss personality. For their shpw, Corduroy was the dominant fabric which allowed for striking pieces of weekend bags and jackets. Worn separately, each piece would appeal just as well to the female figure, worn together and they told a story of a confident, unencumbered man not afraid to embrace all shades of pink. Buda was just as impressive in his first Fastrack™ when he complemented his collection with well-tailored and functional bags. His ability to offer variety with his layered pieces speaks to his flexibility as a designer. Boho hats, rolled up sleeves and cropped, viscose jackets were takeaway items, the best item being worn the young designer. The collection seamlessly inhabited the personalities of both DJ Tira and Buda