Africa at the Crossroads of Fashion: Designed, Made and Sold on the Continent
AFI Insider
The key players in the fashion world have been looking at the Global South and Asia to identify the next powerhouses.
These are countries - or in this case, continents - that are slowly making an impact in the fashion industry, whether through the designers and entrepreneurs that have become global names or the customers and personalities who are now fixtures at fashion weeks in Paris, Milan, London, and New York.
And with the world changing faster than you can say “surprise” (especially with tariffs flung around like a game of UNO), it’s more evident than ever that it’s time for new power players.
That was the sentiment from a discussion at the BoF Crossroads 2025 event in Dubai during the panel discussion titled Designed, Made and Sold in Africa.
Moderated by Sudanese-British writer Rozan Ahmed, this conversation brought together the discussion brought together three influential figures in African fashion:
- Maryse Mbonyumutwa, founder of Asantii and CEO of Rwandan garment manufacturer Pink Mango;
- Nigerian entrepreneur and concept store founder Reni Folawiyo;
- and Laduma Ngxokolo, the South African designer behind luxury knitwear label MaXhosa Africa.
They discussed not only the persistent challenges - like access to raw materials and limited manufacturing infrastructure - but also the creativity, innovation, and entrepreneurship that continue to thrive across the continent.
Here are the key takeaways from the discussion.
Fashion Manufacturing Is Africa’s Next Frontier
Maryse Mbonyumutwa shared her unexpected journey into manufacturing, which began when she struggled to find local production for her brand. Recognising Africa’s untapped potential, she shifted focus to building manufacturing capacity.
Key points from her discussion:
- Africa is increasingly seen as the next major sourcing destination for apparel, with growing interest from retailers in East Africa, West Africa, and the Middle East.
- Factories like hers employ predominantly women (80%) and youth (95%), addressing critical needs for job creation and skills development.
- While environmental sustainability is a global priority, she emphasized that Africa naturally offers social sustainability through ethical labor practices and community impact.
- With abundant labour and lower costs, she called Africa a "blank canvas" for sustainable fashion innovation, urging the industry to invest now.
Retail That Celebrates African Creativity
Reni Folawiyo founded Alára as a groundbreaking concept store in Lagos, which blends fashion, art, and design to showcase African talent. She highlighted:
- The challenge of representing an entire continent’s diversity in a single retail space, requiring constant evolution and storytelling.
- The importance of intentional curation, asking designers: "What is the essence of what you do? Who is it empowering?"
- The need to move beyond superficial global interest (the "gaze") and ensure African creatives truly benefit from the industry’s growth.
- In Nigeria, craftsmanship and couture are deeply embedded in daily life, with made-to-measure clothing being a cultural norm rather than a luxury exception.
Cultural Heritage as Modern, Everyday Luxury
Laduma Ngxokolo’s MaXhosa Africa has successfully changed perceptions of African luxury by infusing Xhosa traditions into contemporary knitwear. After showcasing at AFI Fashion Week in Joburg and Cape Town, he has become a drawcard at Paris Fashion Week.
He shared the beginning of his journey in the fashion industry and what keeps inspiring him.
- How his brand began as a university thesis during the 2010 World Cup, asking: "How do we modernise local aesthetics while addressing unemployment?"
- He draws from Xhosa beadwork and rites of passage ceremonies, transforming them into high-end, wearable art.
- The goal is to fill the gap in the market for authentic African luxury, proving that Africa-made products can compete globally.
Redefining "Made in Africa" Fashion
The panel also tackled global perceptions of African-made fashion:
- Laduma linked "Made in South Africa" with excellence and black empowerment, challenging outdated stereotypes.
- Reni argued that African craftsmanship should command prestige, not be associated with cheap mass production.
- It was agreed that the true strength of African fashion lies in its people—artisans, designers, and entrepreneurs who combine tradition with innovation.
Africa’s fashion industry stands at a turning point but if there's something to take from the panel, it is this: Africa is not just the future of fashion. It is the present.