Dr Precious Moloi-Motsepe in Conversation with Chioma Nnadi
AFI Insider
At the Moonlight Studio in New York City, the energy was palpable as Dr. Precious Moloi-Motsepe, Founder and CEO of Africa Fashion International (AFI), welcomed an audience of fashion insiders, creatives, and cultural leaders.
The occasion? An event to celebrate Afro Dandyism ahead of the Met Gala. Hosted in collaboration with Harvard’s Center for African Studies, the event was the beginning of one of the most important weekends in fashion.
Wearing a Thebe Magugu dress from his Heritage III Collection, Dr Precious Moloi-Motsepe started proceedings with a surprise - a fireside chat with Chioma Nnadi, Head of Editorial Content at British Vogue. Their discussion delved into the transformative power of Afro Dandyism and the rise of African fashion on the world stage.
A Pan-African Vision for Fashion
Dr. Moloi-Motsepe opened by reflecting on AFI’s journey since its founding in 2007. “We started back when there was a paucity of African fashion designers on global runways and in stores,” she explained, highlighting AFI’s mission to showcase the continent’s immense talent and cultural diversity. Through initiatives like the Fasttrack programme, AFI has incubated young designers - some of whom, like Thebe Magugu, have gone on to win prestigious awards such as the LVMH Prize.
“We know there’s so much talent on the African continent,” Moloi-Motsepe said. “If the representation wasn’t what we felt it should be, we had to bring together designers to train young people as well.” The result: a vibrant network of established and emerging African designers now making their mark internationally.
Bringing the African Gaze to the Met Gala
This year’s Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute exhibition theme, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, is centered on Black Dandyism. It has provided a timely backdrop for the conversation on the impact of Africans on the global fashion industry.
In the conversation, Dr Moloi-Motsepe emphasised the importance of presenting an African perspective on a movement historically rooted in Europe and North America. “If you’ve been to Africa, you know of the Sapeurs in the Congo, Sophiatown’s Mapantsula, the energy of Nigerian street culture, and the creativity alive in Nairobi,” she said. “We wanted to bring that story to this platform.”
Fashion as Resistance, Self-Love, and Storytelling
Turning to Chioma Nnadi, Dr. Moloi-Motsepe asked what fashion means beyond clothing, as a reflection of culture, identity, and impact. Nnadi, whose career spans from London’s Evening Standard to the helm of British Vogue, described fashion as “an act of self-love, self-care, and resistance.” She noted that Black Dandyism celebrates creativity and individuality, using style to take up space and challenge societal norms.
Nnadi recounted her recent interview with Pharrell Williams for American Vogue, where he spoke about centering Black culture at major global events. “He said, ‘I want the Met Gala to feel like that-a celebration of Black excellence, relativity, and joy,’” Nnadi shared. In a challenging political climate, she argued, it’s more important than ever to center Black voices and style.
A Proud Moment for African Fashion
Asked about a moment that made her proud of African fashion’s progress, Nnadi pointed to Thebe Magugu’s LVMH Prize win as a turning point. “Talking to Thebe, you realise he’s more than a designer -he weaves the storytelling of South Africa into his clothes. There’s always more to the story,” she said. The precedent set by Magugu and other designers, like Nigeria’s Orange Culture, has opened doors for a new generation.
Advice for the Next Generation
As the conversation drew to a close, Dr. Moloi-Motsepe asked Nnadi for advice to share with young African designers. “It’s really important to have a strong point of view and know the story you want to tell,” Nnadi advised. “There’s so much noise in the culture right now. If there isn’t an authentic through line, if there isn’t something that makes you stand out, you have to really think carefully about how you enter this space. Clothes are a luxury -you have to be super intentional.”
A Celebration of Community and Global Recognition
The fireside chat ended with gratitude and anticipation for the Met Gala, where Nnadi revealed she would be wearing a design by Martine Rose, a Black British designer. The fireside chat underscored the power of collaboration and community in advancing African fashion and the enduring impact of Afro Dandyism as both a cultural and political force.
As Dr Moloi-Motsepe reminded the audience, “If you want to go fast, you go alone. But if you want to go far, you work with others.” In that spirit, the conversation served as both a celebration and a call to action for the future of African fashion-rooted in heritage, driven by innovation, and ready for the global spotlight.