LVMH Prize 2025: Is It Time for Another Designer of African Descent to Win?
AFI Insider
The finalists of the LVMH Prize 2025 were announced on Wednesday, 02 April 2025, by Delphine Arnault.
Included in the finalists are two designers of African descent, Tolu Coker (British-Nigerian) of TOLU COKER and Torishéju Dumi (British/Nigeria/Brazil) of TORISHÉJU.
The two designers will compete against: Alain Paul, Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø, Francesco Murano, Soshi Otsuki, Steve O Smith, and Danial Aitouganov.
The LVMH Prize 2025 Finalists. Picture Courtesy of LVMH
“On the occasion of the 12th edition of the LVMH Prize, the collections of the semi-finalists highlighted a rich diversity of backgrounds and creative visions,” stated Arnault, CEO of Christian Dior, in a press statement.
“They each displayed an inspiring level of expertise in tailoring and craftsmanship, as well as great refinement, and I would like to take this opportunity to congratulate them all.”
African Designers and the LVMH Prize
The LVMH Prize is a celebrated barometer of what is widely regarded as the fashion industry’s future. The competition, over the past six years, has witnessed African designers shaping that future with remarkable boldness.
From Thebe Magugu’s groundbreaking 2019 win to Jacques Agbobly’s semi-final placement in 2024, the continent's creative voices have consistently demonstrated their leadership in global fashion.
Thebe Magugu in 2022. Thebe Magugu teamed up with Dior for an exclusive capsule collection supporting the Charlize Theron Africa Outreach Project. Picture courtesy of LVMH
Since South Africa’s Thebe Magugu became the first African designer to win in 2019, African designers have consistently left their mark on the LVMH Prize:
- 2019: Nigerian designer Kenneth Ize reached the finals, later dressing Naomi Campbell.
- 2020: Sindiso Khumalo (South Africa) was a joint winner.
- 2021: Lukhanyo Mdingi (South Africa) won the Karl Lagerfeld Prize.
- 2022: Idris Balogun (Karl Lagerfeld Prize winner) and Tokyo James (finalist), both from Nigeria.
- 2023-24: Faith Oluwajimi (Nigeria) and Jacques Agbobly (Togo) advanced to the semi-finals.
- 2025: Yasmin Mansour (Egypt) and David Kusi Boye-Doe (Ghana) also made it into the semi-finals.
Tolu Coker and Torishéju Dumi were featured in the British Vogue January 2024 issue alongside LVMH Prize 2020 alumnus Priya Ahluwalia. Picture: British Vogue/Conde Nast
This consistent presence is not coincidental. African designers are at the forefront of addressing fashion’s most critical demands: cultural authenticity, sustainability, and innovation.
Another win would not merely celebrate individual talent but solidify Africa’s position as a vital creative powerhouse. With Tolu Coker and Torishéju Dumi as 2025 finalists, the question is not just whether an African designer will win again, but why this moment demands it.
The Case for TORISHÉJU
Groundbreaking Paris Fashion Week Debut:
Dumi made history in October 2023 when she debuted her collection at Paris Fashion Week. Her show, Fire on the Mountain, featured supermodels Naomi Campbell, Alton Mason, and Paloma Elsesser.
Industry Recognition:
Dumi’s designs have been featured at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion exhibition and worn by Zendaya during the Dune: Part 2 press tour. She also appeared on the January 2024 cover of British Vogue as a sustainability trailblazer.
Cultural and Artistic Depth:
Drawing from her Nigerian-Brazilian heritage and Catholic upbringing, Dumi’s work incorporates themes of religion, folklore, and tradition while challenging stereotypes about Black artistry in high fashion.
Sustainability and Craftsmanship:
Dumi uses deadstock materials and innovative techniques to create heirloom-quality pieces, blending sustainability with artistic vision.
The Case for TOLU COKER
Groundbreaking Collections:
Coker collections reimagine Yoruba spirituality and diaspora traditions. Her designs explore heritage, memory, and identity through bold craftsmanship.
Tolu Coker’s recent collection at London Fashion Week, Ori, was a study in Aladura church garments and Louisiana ritual wear, into wearable art.
Sustainability Leadership:
Her brand emphasizes responsible design, using deadstock wools, upcycled denim, and eco-leathers. She champions heirloom fashion and environmentally conscious practices. Her philosophy—"Clothes are archives of memory"—positions fashion as a tool for social change and cultural preservation.
Industry Recognition:
Coker received the British Fashion Council NEWGEN Award (2023-2024). She was also featured on British Vogue’s cover as a sustainability trailblazer (alongside Torishéju Dumi) and was listed in Forbes 30 Under 30 Europe for Arts & Culture.
Collaborations and Celebrity Appeal:
Her partnerships with Manolo Blahnik highlight her commercial viability, while her designs have been worn by Rihanna, Thandiwe Newton, Tiwa Savage, and Lewis Hamilton.
Breaking Barriers
As the fashion industry continues to evolve, designers like Torishéju Dumi and Tolu Coker remind us that it is far more than clothing—it is a profound medium for storytelling, cultural preservation, and social change.
Their inclusion among the finalists for the prestigious LVMH Prize 2025 highlights the transformative power of African fashion on the global stage.