Africa’s Fashion Diaspora: Celebrating African Designers at FIT NYC
Buhle Mbonambi
The world is taking notice of Made In Africa fashion, and a new exhibition at The Museum at FIT in New York City is putting a spotlight on the creativity and cultural richness of African designers.
"Africa's Fashion Diaspora," which runs from September 18th to December 29th, 2024, is a major exhibition to focus on this exciting movement, following the success of "Africa Fashion" at the V&A Museum in 2022.
Burkinabe-born, Ivorian-made, Pathé'O's fashion transcends borders. At the Africa Fashion Unites gala, the legendary designer showcased his signature style: vibrant prints, reimagined traditional clothing, and timeless silhouettes.
This exhibition goes beyond just showcasing beautiful garments. "Africa's Fashion Diaspora" delves into the stories behind the clothes, exploring how fashion can be a powerful tool for storytelling, identity exploration, and social commentary.
It is an exploration of how Black designers across the globe are shaping the fashion landscape. The exhibition will delve into the intricate cross-pollination of ideas within Black culture, highlighting the unique contributions of African and African-descent designers.
Curated by Elizabeth Way, Associate Curator of Costume at The Museum at FIT, the exhibition builds upon her previous work, "Black Designers in American Fashion”.
Way's previous work shone a spotlight on the often-overlooked contributions of Black designers to American fashion, a theme she continues to explore in this new exhibition.
As conversations around representation and racialised experiences in the fashion industry intensify, "Africa's Fashion Diaspora" offers a timely and essential contribution to this discourse, uncovering hidden histories and celebrating the extraordinary talent of Black designers worldwide.
A Global Conversation Through Clothing
Founded in 2017, Kente Gentlemen is the manifestation of designer, Aristide Loua’s desire to foster ethical production through collaboration with local craftspeople.
The exhibition features over 60 ensembles and accessories by Black designers from Africa, Europe, North and South America, and the Caribbean. These designers are creating a unique dialogue, drawing inspiration from their own heritages, the broader African diaspora, and Black cultures around the world.
Imagine a French designer using Black American cowboys as inspiration for a collection, or an Ivorian brand referencing iconic musicians like Fela Kuti and Miles Davis in their designs. This cross-pollination of ideas and influences is a fascinating aspect of the exhibition.
More Than Meets the Eye: Exploring Themes
"Africa's Fashion Diaspora" is divided into nine sections, each exploring a different theme.
The Africa-based designers featured in the exhibition isn't just about established names. It also shines a light on emerging designers who are pushing boundaries and making their mark on the fashion world.
The exhibition highlights the work of legendary designer brands like Côte d’Ivoire’s Pathé’o, and the younger designers who have shaped the renaissance of Made In Africa fashion- South Africa’s Thebe Magugu (an AFI Fastrack Prize alumnus), Côte d’Ivoire’s Kente Gentlemen (currently retailing at House of Nala), Nigeria’s Emmy Kasbit, the accessories brand AAKS of Ghana and more.
A Call to Action: Bringing the Spotlight to Africa
Emmy Kasbit, the trailblazing fashion brand, made a statement at CANEX WKND 2022. With a focus on unconventional style, the label continues to push boundaries and inspire fashion-forward individuals.
"Africa's Fashion Diaspora" is more than just an exhibition; it's a call to action. While this showcase takes place in New York, the hope is that it will inspire similar exhibitions in African fashion capitals like Johannesburg, Cape Town, Abidjan, Dakar, Lagos and Accra, where there are even more designers who are doing exemplary work to change the narrative of Made-In-Africa fashion.
This exhibition is a must-see for anyone interested in fashion, African culture, or the global Black experience. It's a chance to discover a wealth of talented designers, learn about the rich history and stories behind their creations, and see how fashion is being used to celebrate heritage, explore identity, and make powerful social statements.