A Journey Through Southern Africa's Textiles
A Tapestry Woven from Culture: Fabrics of Southern Africa
Sikelela Mnqubeni
When Laduma Ngxokolo's Maxhosa Africa opened its first international store in New York City, it made news.
This was not only just the beautiful success story of a South African brand, but a confirmation that the world is interested in something new from other parts of the world.
The store's opening, attended by customers and the designer's compatriots, was a celebration of a brand that has championed an indigenous textile- mohair.
Southern Africa boasts a vibrant tapestry of cultures, each with its own unique story told through textiles.
While traditionally, animal skins were used for clothing, the arrival of European and Asian influences in the 16th century led to the adoption of various fabrics.
Let's explore some of the most fascinating textiles that embody the spirit of Southern Africa.
Indigenous Textiles: A Legacy of Craftsmanship
Mohair, for example, is a luxurious fibre derived from the fleece of Angora goats. South Africa is a world leader in mohair production, renowned for its exceptional quality and lustre.
Mohair garments are priced for their softness, warmth, and durability, making them a staple in winter wardrobes.
Maxhosa Africa has successfully used mohair to build a fashion empire. The brand is instantly recognisable, thanks to the graphic prints in bright, bold and pastel shades which has endeared the brand to many across the world.
Merino Wool
Similarly, sheep wool plays a significant role in Southern African textiles. Merino wool, known for its fine fibres, is another major export from the region.
Soft, breathable, and naturally insulating, Merino wool is used to create a variety of garments, from cozy sweaters to lightweight shirts.
Rich Mnisi has also used Merino wool to create modern interpretations of xibelani, a traditional XiTsonga layered skirt made with wool.
The production of these indigenous textiles is not just an economic activity; it's a way of life for many communities. Traditional skills and knowledge are passed down through generations, ensuring the preservation of this rich cultural heritage.
Shweshwe: From Royalty to Runway
The Kopano Boobtube Dress in Shweshwe by Bongiwe Walaza at Joburg Fashion Week.
SHOP THE DRESS
Shweshwe's story begins with a gift. King Moshoeshoe of the Basotho people received indigo-dyed cloth from French missionaries in the 1800s. Deeply impressed, the king adopted the fabric, and its popularity spread throughout his domain. The name "shweshwe" is believed to have originated from this royal connection.
Later, German settlers in the Eastern Cape also brought indigo-dyed cloth, and Xhosa women began incorporating it into their attire. Today, shweshwe is a registered trademark produced locally by Da Gama Textiles. The fabric's characteristic geometric patterns are achieved using a resist-dyeing technique.
Shweshwe was traditionally used for ceremonial purposes. However, in the early 2000s, South African fashion designers, most notably Bongiwe Walaza, breathed new life into the fabric. Their innovative designs featuring shweshwe graced international catwalks, transforming it into a contemporary fashion statement.
Leteise, worn by BaTswana, is similar to shweshwe. Traditionally used by married women during ceremonies like "patlo" (asking for the bride price), Leteise has become the go-to fabric for traditional attire in Botswana. It's worn by all ethnic groups across the country, not just the Tswana people for whom it was originally used.
Interestingly, the youth of Botswana have embraced Leteise, making it a must-have item in every woman's wardrobe. The ability to blend modern fashion trends with traditional styles has further cemented Leteise's place in Botswana's cultural identity.
Basotho Blanket: More Than Just Warmth
Thabo Makhetha has taken the Basotho blanket and used it to create modern silhouettes that have earned her a following globally.
In Lesotho, the Basotho blanket is not just a garment, it's a symbol of national identity. Introduced by European traders in the 19th century, these blankets have become deeply woven into the Basotho culture.
Renowned for their vibrant colours, intricate designs, and symbolic meanings, Basotho blankets are worn during important ceremonies and celebrations. They represent social status, heritage, and pride. While European in origin, the Basotho people have embraced and adapted the blankets, incorporating their own traditions and beliefs into the designs.
Today, Basotho blankets transcend their traditional use. They are a source of cultural pride, a connection to history, and a unique expression of Basotho creativity. The fabric's versatility extends beyond blankets; it's now used to create dresses, jackets, and other garments, gaining further popularity after being featured in the 2018 Marvel movie "Black Panther."
Umbhaco: A Canvas Steeped in Tradition
No exploration of Southern African textiles would be complete without mentioning Umbhaco, the traditional canvas fabric of the Xhosa people.
This thick, hand-woven cotton boasts a rich history and cultural significance.
Traditionally reserved for special occasions like weddings and festivals, Umbhaco reflects the wearer's social standing through its intricate patterns, beading and colours.
The production of Umbhaco is a skill passed down through generations, ensuring the preservation of this cultural treasure. Today, Umbhaco continues to evolve, incorporating modern design elements while retaining its timeless elegance.