African Designers Take Centre Stage During Fashion Month
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Buhle Mbonambi
This past fashion month carried a clear sense of intentionality, as African designers not only displayed their exceptional skills but also made a bold statement about the current position of Made in Africa fashion.
It became evident that these designers weren’t burdened by the need to redefine or change the narrative of African fashion. Instead, they were simply creating beautiful, world-class clothing meant to be appreciated by a global audience.
One of the main challenges many African designers face is the expectation that they must rely solely on prints, culture, and heritage—conforming to Western perceptions of what African fashion should be.
However, with the growing influence of brands like Thebe Magugu, Lagos Space Programme, Christie Brown, Maxhosa Africa, and Lukhanyo Mdingi, the world is finally catching up to the true depth and diversity of African fashion that’s been overlooked for far too long.
The shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, were testament to the creativity and mastery coming out of the African continent.
Here's a closer look at some of the standout collections from African designers showcased at the world's top fashion capitals.
South African Designers Take on New York
Five South African designers left their mark at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) with a showcase titled The Crown Collection. The show not only celebrated the immense creativity of these designers but also honoured thirty years of South Africa’s democracy and fashion freedom.
The designers who made waves were Gugubygugu by Gugu Peteni, HAMETHOP by Tshakani Mashaba, MUNKUS by Thandi Ntuli, Manthe Ribane by Manthe Ribane Liebmann, and Neimil by Keneilwe Mothoa & Lubabalo Mxalisa.
A Return to New York for Kibonen
One of Cameroon’s most recognisable fashion brands, Kibonen, made a triumphant return to NYFW. Kibonen Nfi’s collection, Bimbia II, brought a sense of history and artistry to the runway, reminding the fashion world of why this designer continues to be a standout.
Taibo Bacar & Orange Culture at UNGA Week
Mozambique’s Taibo Bacar made a grand statement with the brand’s highly anticipated collection, Gongorosa, showcased at The Africa Centre during UNGA Week. Nigeria’s Adebayo Oke-Lawal, the creative mind behind Orange Culture, also presented his latest Spring/Summer 2025 collection during this time, appearing in both New York and London.
Maxhosa Africa Expands Its Global Reach
South African brand Maxhosa Africa left an indelible impression during UNGA Week with a stunning showcase at the Unstoppable Africa GABI Gala. This was soon followed by a showing at Paris Fashion Week, where the brand unveiled its Autumn/Winter 2025 collection. With a newly opened store in New York, Maxhosa Africa is steadily solidifying its global presence.
Tolu Coker Shines at London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week wouldn’t have been complete without Nigeria’s Tolu Coker. Known for collections that are as personal as they are innovative, this season saw Coker drawing inspiration from 70s silhouettes and her own family heritage, making her showcase one of the must-attend events of the season.
Thebe Magugu and Lagos Space Programme in Paris
South Africa’s Thebe Magugu once again turned heads in Paris, presenting a collection inspired by his father’s Malawian roots. Meanwhile, Lagos Space Programme, helmed by Adeju Thompson, continued to prove why it is regarded as one of the most exciting and forward-thinking brands in the industry today.
Tokyo James in Milan
The British-Nigerian designer, Iniye Tokyo James, also made a strong impression in Milan with a collection inspired by the eclectic chaos of his home country, Nigeria. His work fused bold creativity with a sense of cultural authenticity that felt both modern and timeless.
It is becoming increasingly common to see African brands participating in global fashion weeks, signalling that their presence is no longer a novelty but an expectation. As the world continues to focus on Africa’s creative industries, these designers' collections, stories, and imagery are becoming more accessible, leading to greater representation in mainstream pop culture.